Third Year's the Charm

Speaking of Papal Pilgrimages, today marks the third anniversary of Benedict's inauguration as the Holy Father. The President of the Italian Republic, Giorgio Napolitano, a.k.a. guy in charge of the country I'm currently living in, hosted an honorary symphony tonight for the Holy Father at the Hall of Paul VI.

It was my first time in the hall--all the other Vatican events I've been at with the Pope have been in the Basilica or the Piazza. The Swiss Guards looked at my red pass and indicated which entrance to go in. The orchestra and choir were from Milan, with tonight's pieces being drawn from Berio, Brahms and Beethoven, apparently being sponsored by the letter 'B'.

Brahms piece was the Schicksalslied op. 54 which everybody had to say 10 times fast before they would play it--actually, not so, and we all read the Italian title anyways, which was Il Canto del Destino, a grand name, and whose lines translated from the German spoke about the Elesian Fields, which always sounds attractive.

Beethoven's work was his 7th symphony, which was of course lively and fun. The president shared a few words beforehand, and the cameras kept panning back to him and the Holy Father during the concert, who was successfully able to stay awake after having just arrived back from the States. Then Pope Benedict shared a few words afterwards--Zenit includes his reference to the "spiritual value of musical art, called in a particular way to instill hope in the human spirit wounded by the earthly experience."

West Meets East

It continues to be amazing what a groundswell of enthusiasm is meeting the Holy Father during his visit to the U.S. Among the many coming from all over the nation to be with Pope Benedict are our own bishops from Sacramento, Bishop Weigand and our auxiliary Bishop Soto--see the updates at our diocesan website!

Not-so-secret Agent

For thorough, up-to-the minute coverage of Benedict's visit to the United States, go to Catholic News Agency. Featuring Papal Radar!

A Continuing Blogger

Father Tim Finigan of The Hermeneutic of Continuity joined us for lunch today with Father Charles Briggs as they visit from England. Among other things his recent blog updates include excellent links on the Holy Father's visit to the United States and an illuminated photo of Saint Peter's by night.

High Noon

Pope Benedict XVI flew out midday today to head to the U.S. Don't miss this video clip interviewing President Bush about his unprecedented greeting of the Holy Father at the airport on his arrival to America.

Napoleon of Notting Hill

This blog title comes from the novel by G. K. Chesterton: in this long-overdue blog post, traveling to Siena Saturday of Holy Week corresponded with completing the riotous story that's hard to find in print in the U.S.

I traveled with the students of Christendom College to St. Catherine of Siena's hometown, being able to celebrate Mass at her home, still overseen by the Dominican Order she was a member of. Chesterton's story formed an appropriate backdrop to this hilltop medieval city, as the bright colors of the city's guilds, the Contrade, echo his reawakening of the vigor of a younger culture.

The Contrade form an active part of Sienese life, including the well-publicized horse race, the Palio, held twice over the summer. By coincidence, they were holding a procession and liturgy at the main cathedral (pictured at left) the afternoon we were in town.





Chesterton's account opens with a reference back to the brilliant yellow and red of the old Nicaraguan flag--colors he would then draw upon in his vivid story, and colors echoed in the multi-hued radiance of the Contrade.











17 Contrade are active in Siena today.






The procession of guilds was led by a drum and trumpet corps, which from a distance made one wonder if it was thunder or an approaching battle that was heard.










The orange banner to the left belongs to the Contrada del Leocorno, winner of the most recent Palio in August last year.




The horse race involves several laps around the city's central square, shaped to reflect Mary's mantle, a garment which never really envisioned horse racing in its origin.











Thus there are a number of unexpected sharp turns below this city hall.





Our students decided to re-create this splendid pageant, and with several banners they had purchased, engaged in a foot race around the square.













As official time-keeper I monitored their approach down this final stretch.




No horses were harmed in this horsing around on our part, though the banner of the snail engaged in a speed not inherent to the species.



















A glimpse at our morning chapel, where we celebrated Mass at the home of Saint Catherine, who called the Pope back from France to live in his rightful city of Rome.

No Bones About It

You need more than an afternoon to see the city of Rome. With all roads leading to it, there are a lot weaving around within it as well. Visiting here in '05 I did a trek with several friends looking for one of the more obscure of those roads, Via dei Cappuccini, and when even locals had trouble directing us to it, we realized we needed to stop at a gelateria for replenishment.

That turned out to be a mistake, however, as upon setting out, fully ice creamified, we did find the reticent street, and the small church on it that had been our final goal, only to find that it had closed two minutes before.

Two minutes that had been spent purchasing and savoring gelati. Best laid plans.

So it was this last week during the rejuvenating vigor of the Easter Octave that the endeavor was taken up again to find the small Capuchin church that had been our historic goal.

In the photo at left, you can make out the arched door to the lower right that leads to the crypt, wherein is housed the 'bone church' of Rome.

No words do the crypt chapels justice. And on this page no photos will do them justice either. You can't take photos inside, so the exterior photo is the best we can do here. However, if you go to the Capuchin's page itself, you can pursue the link 'The Crypt', and there find both find photos and description of 'the crypt'. The web page, well worth your time, describes the history of how a large stock of bones came to be collected in one place, and then how they became incorporated into the crypt chapels themselves.

Thus the habited skeletons facing the text:

"What you are, we once were;
what we are, you soon will be."

After ruminating amongst the skulls and vertebrae-laced chandeliers, it was time to head to the nearby Spanish Steps.

A beautiful, brightly lit chapel stands at the top of this well known destination, providing Eucharistic Adoration and a wonderful sung liturgy to faithful visitors and surprised tourists. Being in the Italian city of Rome at the top of the Spanish Steps, it makes sense that it is kept by a French community.








Home in Rome of the Community of Jerusalem (link includes clips of their magnificent chanting).






Too bad I don't speak French.

I speak sunset, though, and so appreciated the skyline both before and after the evening service.











The Steps remain ever-populated.