Pontifex

. . . means ‘bridge builder’ in Latin, which is what Jerusalem has in Santiago Calatrava.

I brought along my camera for my afternoon run yesterday, and was able to catch a few shots of his piece, one of Jerusalem’s most recent additions.

Northern Californians will immediately recognize Calatrava’s work, being familiar with the graceful Sundial Bridge crossing the Sacramento River in Redding.

Calatrava’s 72 string bridge in Jerusalem doesn’t cross over any water, though.

The route under Calatrava’s bridge would be better traversed by car than by kayak:

Calatrava modeled the bridge after the theme of a harp, recalling King David and the many subsequent temple musicians.

Calatrava cites Psalm 150 as one of his inspirations—one of the most exuberant of the Psalms: “Praise Him with a blast of the trumpet; praise Him with the lyre and harp!”

“Praise him with really tricky balanced cables making you dizzy when you try to run under them while looking upwards!”

The Seventh Station

Seven sevens give you today, if you started counting from Passover.  A week of weeks, you could say.  So the name for today’s feast, Weeks, or Shavuot, is appropriate.

What is celebrated today?  That of course goes back to the question, what is celebrated on Passover.  Get that one right, and then figure out what the Jewish people would have been doing 50 days (Greek: pentecoste) later.

If you answered that Passover had to do with the Lord delivering Israel from Egypt and bringing them into freedom, you’re right on target.  Journey forward seven weeks, and where were the Jewish people?  In the heart of the desert of the Sinai Peninsula, they were at the foot of the rocky crest with the same name.  Moses at its summit today receives the new Law that would allow Israel to live as God’s people.

Seven wasn’t enough when it came to the Torah itself.  The Jewish Encyclopedia explains that the Law was in fact given in 70 languages:

The word of God was pronounced on Mount Sinai in seventy languages (Shab. 88a; Ex. R. v.; comp. Acts ii. 5). The Torah was written in seventy languages in order that the nations should not be able to plead ignorance as their excuse for rejecting it (Tosef., Soṭah, viii.). Among the seventy languages the most noble is Hebrew, for in it was pronounced the creative word of God (Gen. R. xviii., xxxi.; Yalḳ., Gen. 52).

Because of this, regarding today’s feast, the Encyclopedia continues: “The relation of the Jewish to the Christian Pentecost with its pouring out of the spirit as an analogy to the giving the Law in seventy languages is obvious.”

Speaking of sevens, I was at the Seventh Station on the Via Dolorosa today.  Every Friday the Missionaries of Charity host a Mass in a tiny chapel hidden above the Way of the Cross, followed by adoration throughout the day.  It was beautiful to stay afterward and pray, because throughout the day when children came in to pray the rosary with the sisters, you got to see what exuberance meant.

Cue Music

Certainly, you’ve continued to be amazed at the brilliant insights and meaningful commentary that regularly post here at Peregrinus.  But for many, you may have felt that the one missing element was a quality soundtrack.

Wait no more.  Without further ado, we offer this selection for your listening pleasure.  From the Orthodox Jewish community comes Matisyahu, here presented with his piece ‘Jerusalem’.  Drawing from Psalm 137 the chorus echoes the lyric: “If I forget you Jerusalem, may my right hand wither.”  Don’t forget to check out his new release, One Day.

To Boldly Go

Speaking of landing on the moon, I just came across this quote from Neil Armstrong: this is from Thomas Friedman's "From Beirut to Jerusalem".

Israeli archaeologist Meir Ben-Dov was showing Neil Armstrong around Jerusalem, and when they got to the stairs leading to the Temple Mount, Armstrong asked him if they would date back to Jesus' time.

When receiving confirmation that they were steps that Jesus himself would have walked, Armstrong told Ben-Dov: "I have to tell you, I am more excited stepping on these stones than I was stepping on the moon."

For those of us who are fans of Brian Regan, the quote is doubly-classic . . .

No ID in Egypt

You've already seen this story but I only just got the word of Father Mattaos Wahba, imprisoned in Egypt under their no-conversion legal policy.  Follow the link to read up on one of the leaders of the Coptic church and the ongoing persecution against Christians in Egypt today.

Magdalene

It may be that in your geographical precinct it is today that you celebrate Ascension Thursday.  In which case a few more photos from last Thursday’s Ascension celebration are in order.

These are from the hike back down the Mount of Olives on the way back from Mass at the site of the Ascension.  Just above Gethsemane, near the base of the slope, the Russian Orthodox have the beautiful Monastery of Mary Magdalene.

Possessing a lovely view of the Old City, its golden domes are one of the most eye-catching sites on the hillside:

Though the five domes here aren’t quite as large as the golden sphere of the Dome of the Rock inside the city walls:

The interior of the sanctuary, surrounded by beautiful flower gardens, reflects the prayerful stillness of the nuns who reside there:

Here the sisters preserve the icon of Mary and Child titled the ‘Odigidria’, brought down from Lebanon, with many miracles and healings attributed to it.  The Russian martyrs Elizabeth and Barbara, nuns killed by the Bolsheviks, are also buried here.

Uplifting

“One small step for man, one giant leap for mankind.”

Thus spake Neil Armstrong when he set foot on the moon, marking a major threshold for the human race.

His touchdown confirmed that we could do something we had never done before; something many had never even dreamed of.

Today marks a similar milestone for the human race.  Christmas was big—the Annunciation debuted in open sight: God had become a human being.  This stunning transition revealed how much God loved us, that he wanted to be with us.

But the story doesn’t end with Jesus showing up, snagging some gold, frankincense and myrrh, and going hiking in Galilee.  He’s here to transform human potential, and today we see that potential unleashed.

Having taken us through death to life by his own entry in hell, he now stands on top of the Mount of Olives with his disciples.  This is where we see the giant leap: a human being, one of us, lifts off and enters into heaven.  He’s completely changed our tickets: our itinerary used to read Nowhere, Fast, and now the sky’s the limit.

Wait, not even the sky is the limit.

For today’s solemnity of the Ascension we had Mass on the top of the Mount of Olives, where the foundations of an ancient church marking Christ’s going up to heaven still remain.

Masses had begun at midnight and were continuing through the morning.  As we waited for the solemn liturgy at 9:30, pilgrims came to pray, each in their own way.

The Poles, always present for major church events (‘Where there’s a Pope, there’s a Pole’), literally embraced the simple dome present today:

Others spent time in silence:

The interior of octagonal room had been decorated by the Franciscans for the celebration:

The famous stone (see the account of the visit of Saint Ignatius—scroll down to 67) enshrining the final touch point for Jesus was ringed around by candles:

 

Even though the space was tiny, some of us concelebrants were able to stand inside, while many more, in a Mark 1:33 sort of way, were gathered outside the door.

You know you’ve climbed a mountain when you make your way up from the walls ringing Jerusalem—maybe that’s why, a friend commented, Jesus chose this spot, because he’d be closer to his destination . . .

One small post for Father Avram, one giant mess-o-blogdacity for the planet.

May Flowers

May is almost over, but it's never to late to dial into the theme of the month:

 

If you want a metaphor for what connecting with that powerhouse provides, this video clip illustrates comparatively what you will be able to do spiritually:

Our Lady of Sheshan

What’s 24 divided by 1,000,000,000?

Actually, China now has over a billion people—something like 1.3 billion these days.  But when you look at how many hours and moments are in a day, you can see why it would be a proportionately enormous investment to invest 24 hours in praying for China.

Which is why it makes sense that Pope Benedict has established May 24, commemorating Mary, Help of Christians, as a Day of Prayer for the Church in China.  Writing this prayer to Our Lady of Sheshan, the Pope turns to Mary’s motherly care to intercede for her many children.

A friend suggested beginning praying today, May 16th, in order to lift up a nine-day novena for the budding life of Faith in Chixian Shenzhou, the Divine Land.

Virgin Most Holy, Mother of the Incarnate Word and our Mother, venerated in the Shrine of Sheshan under the title 'Help of Christians,' the entire Church in China looks to you with devout affection. We come before you today to implore your protection. Look upon the People of God and, with a mother's care, guide them along the paths of truth and love, so that they may always be a leaven of harmonious coexistence among all citizens.

When you obediently said 'Yes' in the house of Nazareth, you allowed God's eternal Son to take flesh in your virginal womb and thus to begin in history the work of our redemption. You willingly and generously co-operated in that work, allowing the sword of pain to pierce your soul, until the supreme hour of the Cross, when you kept watch on Calvary, standing beside your Son, Who died that we might live.

From that moment, you became, in a new way, the Mother of all those who receive your Son Jesus in faith and choose to follow in His footsteps by taking up His Cross. Mother of hope, in the darkness of Holy Saturday you journeyed with unfailing trust towards the dawn of Easter. Grant that your children may discern at all times, even those that are darkest, the signs of God's loving presence.

Our Lady of Sheshan, sustain all those in China, who, amid their daily trails, continue to believe, to hope, to love. May they never be afraid to speak of Jesus to the world, and of the world to Jesus. In the statue overlooking the Shrine you lift your Son on high, offering him to the world with open arms in a gesture of love. Help Catholics always to be credible witnesses to this love, ever clinging to the rock of Peter on which the Church is built. Mother of China and all Asia, pray for us, now and for ever. Amen!

Manger Square

My running paid off today as 3 of us tried to drive over to Bethlehem for Mass with the Holy Father early this morning .

“I thank Almighty God for giving me the grace to come to Bethlehem,” said Pope Benedict XVI in beginning his homily.  I felt the same way—we almost hadn’t made it.

We found all the roads to Bethlehem closed for security—making it a little hard to get there.  Knowing the area from running, though, I was able to navigate us through smaller neighborhoods to get to the back roads that brought us into Bethlehem, in a Magi-like way, by a different route.

There we found several checkpoints as well, but just as we came to the final barricade, beyond which no traffic was allowed, Father Don made a left turn to pull into the driveway of a friend.

So with passage and parking provided, we were able to be part of a latter-day singing of heaven and earth’s Gloria in Excelsis Deo.

Along with a good-sized crowd—flooding the square:

Because of our roundabout arrival, we didn’t have quite as much pre-Mass time as the day before in Jerusalem.

But we did have time to see the friars helping with the candles again.  The Franciscans providing light for the world:

Perhaps most exciting of all was seeing the joy of the Christian Palestinians of Bethlehem in having the Holy Father come to them.  Father Don had worked in the area for years, so he introduced me to some of his friends.

Including those dressed in traditional garb for the occasion:

Because Manger Square in front of the Basilica of the Nativity is quite small, papal-venuely speaking, you were guaranteed to be close:

And to get lots of sun:

A few weeks before I had been in Bethlehem and had spoken with one of the deacons about the preparations the choir was making for today’s Mass.  To hear them and some of the other sounds of the day, click here:

The Pope’s homily spoke of the revitalizing message of Christ’s birth, transforming us to be, “witnesses of the triumph of God’s love over the hatred, selfishness, fear and resentment which cripple human relationships.”  He included in his remarks a special greeting to the pilgrims from Gaza who at the last moment had received permission to leave the Gaza Strip to come to Bethlehem.

To come to Bethlehem where the world had gathered together to hear again the message of the angels bearing good tidings: “Glory to God in the highest, and on earth, peace to those whom he loves.”

Valley of Josafat -- Valley of Tears

Standing before you today, I wish to acknowledge the difficulties, the frustration, and the pain and suffering which so many of you have endured as a result of the conflicts which have afflicted these lands, and the bitter experiences of displacement which so many of your families have known and – God forbid – may yet know. I hope my presence here is a sign that you are not forgotten, that your persevering presence and witness are indeed precious in God’s eyes and integral to the future of these lands.

In his homily today, Pope Benedict XVI spoke to those "in an unbroken line with those first disciples who encountered the Risen Lord," those whom Patriarch Fouad had focused on in his opening remarks to the Holy Father, decrying the violence the Palestinians suffer today from the Israelis, and the suffering of the Jewish people who live in a land so far from peace.

Benedict also pointed to the unique privilege of those who live here: "Here, like the Apostle Saint Thomas, you are granted the opportunity to “touch” the historical realities which underlie our confession of faith in the Son of God."

The Pope's words in the Valley of Decision are words to us as well: "let us . . . pray that every “heavy stone” that stands before the door of our hearts, blocking our complete surrender to the Lord in faith, hope and love, may be shattered by the power of the light and life which shone forth from Jerusalem to all the world that first Easter morn."

Kidron Valley

Today was the big Mass with the Holy Father in Jerusalem.

Security was heavy, tickets were few, but we were able to make it in.

This was as close as we could get:

 

Though they didn’t ask us to help with setup:

 

This clip gives you a sense of some of the energy at the Mass:

 

This guy was pretty popular:

The liturgy itself:

 

Paul VI was the first Pope to have visited the Holy Land since St. Peter left in the first century.  John Paul II followed him in 2000.  So that makes today’s Mass roughly the third with the Holy Father in Jerusalem in almost 2,000 years.

 

The liturgy began at 4:30, ending around 7:00, so our hike home gave us a view of the low western light.

Ratio

Here's the math:

10,000 pilgrims expected to join Benedict on his visit

80,000 security personnel to secure Pope's visit

Both stories from the Jerusalem Post.

Streetwise

Security was high on the streets of Jerusalem today.  Though it’s always high on the streets of Jerusalem.  So today it was particularly high.

Standard patrols on the streets are teams of two with bulletproof vests, riot sticks, and automatic rifles.

Many of the additional security had a pared down appearance, with the green vest and brimmed hat that would look similar to security personnel in the rest of the world, weapons tucked out of sight.

Cutting north of the Old City, I passed by vans with mobile satellite dishes, groups of policemen setting up barricades, and random surveillance teams.

Helicopters were joined by blimps with aerial perspective as I went into the Old City in the afternoon.  Going in meant not coming out, as the gates went into lockdown.  Meeting a roadblock at the Jaffa Gate I tried cutting south to the Zion Gate, which was open, but every road off the hill was closed.  After grabbing a cappuccino I found the roads opened again, only to pass by the squads of police and military still onsite after the Holy Father had passed by.

And this all before the big Mass in the Kidron Valley tomorrow.

A Spiritual Force

More of Pope Benedict, here speaking on what the Catholic Church is--from his interview en route to Jordan:

We are not a political power, but a spiritual force, and this spiritual force is a reality that can contribute to advances in the peace process. I see three levels. First, as believers we are convinced that prayer is a real force: it opens the world to God. We are convinced that God listens and that he can act in history. I think that if millions of people – millions of believers – all pray, this is truly a force that influences and can contribute to moving forward the cause of peace. Second: we are seeking to assist in the formation of consciences. The conscience is the human capacity to perceive the truth, but this capacity is often impeded by particular interests. And to break free from these interests, to open up more to the truth, to true values, is a major undertaking: it is a task of the Church to help us to know true criteria, true values, and to free us from particular interests. And so – in third place – we also speak – no doubt about it – to reason: precisely because we are not a political force, we can perhaps more easily, and in the light of the faith, see the true criteria, we can assist in understanding what contributes to peace and we can appeal to reason, we can support positions that are truly reasonable.

Catch the whole message at the Vatican's website.

Nebo

Here, on the heights of Mount Nebo, the memory of Moses invites us to “lift up our eyes” to embrace with gratitude not only God’s mighty works in the past, but also to look with faith and hope to the future which he holds out to us and to our world.  Like Moses, we too have been called by name, invited to undertake a daily exodus from sin and slavery towards life and freedom, and given an unshakeable promise to guide our journey.

Pope Benedict's words yesterday from Mount Nebo began his pilgrimage through the Holy Land.  As he continues his journey from Jordan to Jerusalem tomorrow, you can get all the latest content here.  There you also have the option of reading Benedict in Arabic, which you may find quite helpful.

Peter’s Keys

The Pope doesn’t arrive till Monday.  But going running this afternoon past the president’s house and the Knesset, I ran past so many papal flags it almost felt like I was back in Rome again.

The crest of the two keys of Peter were flying in the Old City as well—these shots from this morning show the familiar yellow and white banner flying intermingled with the white and blue of the Israeli flag.

By the Jaffa Gate:

 

Looking west toward the Gihon Valley:

Imagine

This new spot was released yesterday:

Quote of the Day

This from Sancta Sanctis:

"You shall know the truth and the truth shall make you odd."

Flannery O'Connor

Giza

From Sinai to Cairo is a very long trip across a very dry desert, with a lot of very rocky crags and very wide expanses of sand.  But then there comes a point where you break out of the dry and come upon the ocean: or more specifically, the Gulf of Suez on the Red Sea.

The hours of compression and the sight of water required an immediate ejection out onto the beach, so we photo-op’d our last stretch before crossing into the continent of Africa—which would my first time there.

A tunnel takes you under the Suez Canal to head toward Cairo.  Our primary destination there, of course, were those fake mountains made by the pharaohs to stash mummies and fill in the Nile-flat landscape.

Giza had the nine pointy points, the only remaining Wonders of the original 7 Wonders of the world.  They’re pretty big.  So when you’re in the photo, you’re pretty small:

 

We hadn’t brushed up on hieroglyph, so we couldn’t read the signs too well.  Hopefully they didn’t say something urgent like Keep Off the Grass.

Actually, there wasn’t any grass, so that wouldn’t have been a problem.

We could read this sign:

 

Passing camels, I think it referred to.

Like this one:

If the signs weren’t bad enough, we couldn’t seem to break through in making conversation with some of the locals:

He just sits there and sphinx about things.  A lot.

 

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(Almost) All photos by Father Estanislao.

Mountaintop

After the whirlwind of Holy Week and Easter here in Jerusalem, my classmates and I had the window of opportunity to head off on another trek: this time to Egypt.

The 5 hour bus ride to the southernmost point of Israel puts you in Eilat, right on the border with the Sinai Peninsula.  There we caught our ride to the Greek Orthodox monastery of Saint Catherine’s, which stands at the foot of Mount Sinai.

Their peaceful rooms were a good call, because we needed all the rest we could get before we were up again at 2:00 am to start the epic hike up the mountain to reach the summit before dawn.

Hiking rugged terrain in almost complete darkness is always made more memorable by having camels snorting by your ear as they share the trail with you.  The Bedouins rise early as well to provide that ride up the mountain or early cup of coffee for anyone who needs a helping hand in their trek.

I had had the special opportunity of bringing my mother here the week before as she finished her Easter visit here to the Holy Land.  To be back again confirmed the meaningfulness of the rugged yet stunning landscape.

Which you don’t see much of when you first start hiking.

But when you reach the top, after a while you see something like this:

 

 

 

 

 

 

And then this:

And then this:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our group of 13 was able to do what the winds had prevented us from doing the last time: Mass on top of the mountain.  Father Johnson took one of the readings:

Much less cold than my previous visit, we were a cheery crew:

And visibility made the descent much more stunning than the climb:

 

The mountain itself:

 

Here at the end of the descent you see the ancient monastery, dating back to the Emperor Justinian in the mid-500’s, making it perhaps the oldest continuously active monastery in the world:

 

A significant place for Biblical scholars as well: the Codex Sinaiticus was found here, containing the entire Bible in Greek and dating back over 1600 years, making it one of the best sources for study.

And of course still found in the area today are camels:

Here are a couple more shots:

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All photos by Father Estanislao.