EPI

“It lets you know you’re on pilgrimage.”

Father Corolla recognized the value of the pouring rain as we walked to Santi Giovanni e Paolo this morning in a repeat of yesterday’s weather.  The large porticoes of the ancient churches become impromptu umbrella stashes as the stream (sometimes literal) of early-morning Mass goers arrives.

The Roman Canon (aka Eucharistic Prayer I) mentions today’s two brothers.  After having listed the Apostles and early popes to honor, it wraps up with John and Paul, Cosmas and Damien, who somehow get trundled into the elite list.  (Cosmas and Damien we’ll see a little later on in the season.)

Sited over John and Paul’s home on the Coelian Hill, today’s baroque church expands upon the original sanctuary built just 36 years after their beheading.

 

Buried beneath the altar, the two brothers were so popular among their contemporaries that the emperor had to execute them in secret at their home instead martyring them publicly.

High ranking officers of their time, they’re with a whole new group of colleagues today.

As per the norm, the church has a lovely sacristy.

St. Paul of the Cross and his congregation were given the care of the church in 1772, and after his death in 1775, he was buried here as well.  The large alabaster columns flanking his tomb are originally from the Basilica of Saint Paul’s Outside the Walls.

Question: How many English Popes have there been?

Answer: One.  And he helped restore this church after the Norman raider Robert Guiscard demolished the original church in 1084.  Among other things, Pope Adrian IV added the eight columns of the portico, five of which you can see below.

The requisite post-liturgy cappuccino with friends helps in recovery from the rain, and sets you on your way past the Arch of Constantine, commemorating his epic victory over Maxentius at the Battle of the Milvian Bridge.